Panasonic

1. Why are Panasonic Fans so quiet?
   
2. Why is input wattage so low on Panasonic Fans?
   
3. Why do Panasonic Fans have such a long life?
   
4. What is a sone?
   
5. Can we install a Panasonic fan in a wall as well as in the ceiling?
   
6. Can a timer be used with a Panasonic fan?
   
7. Can a speed control be used with the Panasonic fans?
   
8. Can we get a motion detector or a humidity sensor on the Panasonic fans?
   
9. Can a Panasonic fan be used over bathtubs and showers?
   
10. Can insulation material be used over fans installed in the ceiling?
    
11. Can a Panasonic fan be used above a kitchen range?
    
12. How do we select the right fan model for a specific room size and duct length?
    
13. What is Static Pressure and how does it affect the type and size of duct I should use with my Panasonic fan?
    
14. How can we determine how much duct we should allow for?
    
15. How do I use the tables in Question 12 if I have cathedral ceilings?
    
16. What does indoor air quality mean and why do I care?
    
17. I have heard of water dripping from the grille or mirrors not clearing quick enough. Is the fan not operating correctly?

Tip Speed.
Fan noise is created as air passes through the grille and as it enters the blower wheel assembly or fan blade. Much of the noise is a function of blower wheel blade tip speed. The tip speed is affected by the revolutions per minute (RPM) of the wheel or fan blade and the diameter of the wheel or fan blade -- a small wheel turning very fast will create more noise than a large wheel turning more slowly for a given airflow. The Panasonic fans use a large diameter, wide blower wheel that moves a large amount of air at reduced RPMs. The motor is also virtually silent. The Panasonic blower wheel is about 60% larger than the competition, but turns at a lower RPM, reducing tip speed and therefore noise.

• Double Suction Blower Wheel.
  One reason that the Panasonic fans operate so quietly is that the blower wheel in a Panasonic fan is designed to draw air in from both sides of the wheel, making it more efficient at moving air. Look for the elongated holes around the motor housing. Part of the air is drawn in from that side, not just from the open end where you can see the wheel. This helps keep the noise down, as there is more area for the air to enter the wheel.

• Exhaust Outlet.
  The outlet on the discharge side of the fan is as wide as the blower wheel, allowing the airflow to be less turbulent as it enters the duct portion of the rough-in adapter. It is then gradually stepped down to the four inch discharge of the rough-in adapter on the smaller fans before it goes into the duct to be discharged. The larger fans have a gradual transition to a six inch connection. The competitions fans have a three inch or four inch fitting right on the discharge of the fan casing, causing turbulence and therefore noise. (Note: if you place your hand over the discharge of the fan without the rough-in adapter, you may feel that there is less air moving than in a competitor's fan. This is because the discharge of the Panasonic fan is so much larger and the same volume of air is spread over a larger opening.)
  
  
• Quiet Motor.
  The motors manufactured by Panasonic and used in all Panasonic fans are a four pole condenser motor that is an advanced version of a Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC) motor. These are among the most efficient fan motors made. The Panasonic condenser motor is more efficient than the PSC motors used by some of the competitive fans. The four pole design helps the fan to rotate smoothly and evenly, reducing noise. This type of motor has a more stable electrical field that keeps the fan shaft turning more evenly. Shaded pole motors used in midrange fans and inexpensive C-frame motors used in cheap fans have a less exact electrical field in the motor, making them rougher and noisier to operate.

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The input wattage readings on the Panasonic fans measured while they are running are the lowest in the industry. That means that, for a given airflow, the Panasonic fans will use fewer kilowatt hours and will virtually always cost less to operate than any other fans. This lower wattage draw is accomplished in a number of ways:

• High Quality Motor.
  Panasonic uses a four pole condenser motor which is composed of a main coil and a sub coil. The coils in a motor are essentially small electromagnets that are turned on and off to create an electrical field to "pull" the fan shaft around, making the fan blower wheel turn. The condenser is connected with the sub coil, which helps with rotation. The condenser acts like a capacitor to store electrical energy and deliver it quickly and in exact amounts to the coil. This improves the electrical efficiency of the motor, reducing power draw. This then results in a smooth and efficient running motor and a reduced energy usage for the consumer.
  
  
• Other brands use shaded pole motors which generally run at higher coil temperatures because they are not as efficient at turning electrical energy into rotational force to turn the blower wheel or fan blade.

• Panasonic-built motors.
  Panasonic builds their own motors and so can control the quality of all the components. Panasonic engineers can also optimize the efficiency of matching the exact motor needed with the desired performance characteristics of all the fans they build. Virtually all the other fan manufacturers purchase their motors from a handful of outside motor suppliers, giving them less control over quality and performance.
  
  
• Wide Blower Wheel.
  Power draw for a motor is a function of the torque needed to turn the load -- in this case, the blower wheel. As stated earlier, the Panasonic fans use a wide blower wheel to improve the airflow efficiency of the fan. This enables the fan to operate at a lower RPM, reducing energy usage.

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The Panasonic fans are designed to give the consumer trouble-free continuous operation for a minimum of 50,000 hours. In fact, the engineering target for these fans was to provide a fan with at least 100,000 hours of operational life, but they have only been manufactured for about 10 years, so we have not reached 100,000 hours of testing yet. In performance tests at the factory in Japan, fans have been tested after 40, 50, and 60,000 hours of operation and virtually no wear was noted. Several factors contribute to this longevity.

• Motor Production.
  Panasonic's motor production is fully automated, with an automatic defect detecting system that was the first in the world. The quality assurance program is exemplary, leading to a defect rate of less than 0.0006%.
  
  
• ISO 9001 plant.
  The production facilities that build the Panasonic fans have earned the distinction of being recognized by the International Standards Organization (ISO) under the ISO 9001 Quality Assurance program. Meeting ISO 9001 means that these factories have met the highest quality standards in the world. This attention to detail helps add life to these fans.
  
  
• Motor Bearings.
  The smaller Panasonic fan motors use special oil-impregnated sleeve bearings that are designed to give 50,000+ hours of operation without any additional lubrication. Inexpensive fans use inexpensive bearings, leading to bearing failure when used very much. C-frame motors used in cheap fans are designed to last for no more than 2,000 hours and generally fail due to bearing failure. The larger FV 20VQ2 and FV 35VQ2 fans use ball bearings in their larger motors. A special lubricant is used that is optimized for the operating conditions of these fans.
  
  
• Motor Design.
  The electrical design of the condenser motor allows it to operate at lower temperatures than most other motors, increasing the life of the motor and the bearings. Heat is always detrimental to motor life and the cooler a motor operates, the longer it will last.
  
  
• Fan Housing.
  The fan housing is made of heavy gauge zinc galvanized steel and painted to protect it from rust and corrosion due to condensation and high humidity. Because of its heavy steel box, it holds up well to jobsite wear and tear during construction.

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The sone is an internationally recognized measurement of sound output. Sones translate decibel readings into numbers that correspond to the way people sense loudness.

Sones follow a "linear" scale, like inches. Double the sones is double the loudness. In contrast, decibels follow a "logarithmic" scale which is a multiplying of numbers instead of adding. Sones readings offer easy, quick and accurate comparisons for laymen and engineers.

In technical terms, the sone is equal in loudness to a pure 1,000 cycles per second at tone at 40 decibels above the listener's threshold of hearing. In layman's terms, one sone is equivalent to the sound of a quiet refrigerator in a quiet kitchen (source HVI)

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Question 5: Can we install a Panasonic fan in a wall as well as in the ceiling?

Panasonic has a new wall fan, the WhisperWall^TM, that is currently going through Underwriters Laboratories testing. This will be the choice for wall applications when it becomes available in the market.

• The smaller ceiling fans up to 110 cfm generally should not be used in the wall due to concerns about orientation of the motor for bearing lubrication and the built-in damper on the discharge side of the fan. If these fans must be installed in the wall, the duct needs to be pointed up to allow the damper to operate. However, the bearings may not last as long due to insufficient oil flow within the sleeve bearings.
  
  
• The larger 190 and 340 cfm fans can be installed in the wall or ceiling. These fans use ball bearings in the larger motors and so are not as prone to lubrication concerns when placed in the wall.

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Question 6: Can a timer be used with a Panasonic fan?

• YES. A time-of-day timer, a cycle timer, or an interval timer can be used with these fans. The time-of-day timer can be used to set certain hours of the day to have the fan on. The cycle timer can be used to ventilate for a set amount of each hour, say 15 minutes of every hour. An interval timer can be used to activate the fan for a short set amount of time, such as a 15 minute crank timer. These timers can be mechanical or digital.

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Question 7: Can a speed control be used with the Panasonic fans?

• YES. To date, Panasonic has only approved the Airetrak speed control and timer unit for use with the Panasonic fans. The Airetrak can be used as a cycle timer to control the Panasonic fan so that it operates at any of 16 speeds for a set amount of time each hour. The installer can set the on-cycle in 5-minute increments per hour up to continuous operation at any speed. The Airetrak has a button to push to speed the fan up to full speed for 20 minutes and then to revert back to the cycle timer schedule. The Airetrak is available from Tamarack Technologies (800-222-5932) and American ALDES (800-255-7749).
  
  
• Most speed controls on the market control the voltage and frequency to slow down the fan. This can cause the condenser motor to "hum" and create noise without moving air at certain frequencies. The Airetrak unit was developed with a Panasonic fan on the bench, so it works in almost all settings. This allows the installer to use a larger fan to get greater capacity, but to speed-control the fan down to a lower flow and noise level for most operations, using the boost button to get the maximum flow when needed.

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Question 8: Can we get a motion detector or a humidity sensor on the Panasonic fans?

• NO, not at this time. There are commercially available motion detectors used in the lighting industry that can be used with our fans to turn them on when someone comes into the room. These work fine and products can be chosen to meet your design situation in a variety of shapes and "looks". The disadvantage of using a motion detector is that if you go into the bathroom and sit still for a few minutes, the fan may turn off.
  
  
• There are also commercially available humidity sensors that can be used with the Panasonic fans. These sensors are usually adjustable so that the occupant can set the desired humidity level. Fans with built-in humidity sensors often are not adjustable, so the fan may run continuously in a damp or muggy climate and never run in a dry climate. We feel it is better to allow the designer or installer to customize the controls to match the climate and installation.

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Question 9: Can a Panasonic fan be used over bathtubs and showers?

• YES, Panasonic fans are listed by Underwriters Laboratories for installation over tubs and showers provided that a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is used to protect the circuit in accordance with the National Electrical Code. While not specifically listed by UL as an application, the fan can also be installed in a steam shower enclosure. Keep in mind, however, that any ventilation device located in a damp environment like a shower enclosure may have a reduced life due to the high humidity and potential for corrosion. It should be operated for longer periods of time to ensure the removal of the moisture and to reduce the potential for condensation in the fan body or ducting.

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Question 10: Can insulation material be used over fans installed in the ceiling?

• YES, loose fill or batt insulation can be placed directly over the fan housing in the attic. The Panasonic fans and fan/light combination units do not create the excessive heat that is a problem for recessed lighting fixtures or some competitors' fan/light combination units. The building codes and UL reflect requirements for "IC-rated" products for recessed lighting fixtures that refer to Insulation Contact. This is only an issue for high temperature devices that must be rated IC to allow insulation to cover the fixture. Otherwise, those recessed lighting fixtures require that the insulation be held back from the unit to keep it from getting too hot. There is no such requirement for the Panasonic fans. Our efficient and cool motors and our fluorescent bulbs do not create enough heat to limit the contact with insulation materials.

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Question 11: Can a Panasonic fan be used above a kitchen range?

• NO. Fans installed above kitchen ranges must be listed for that application by UL and must be designed to handle the grease in the exhaust air and the high temperatures of a potential grease fire. The Panasonic fans are not rated by UL for above-range installation and are limited to 104 air.
  
  
• HOWEVER, they are often specified to provide kitchen ventilation rather than rangehood ventilation because they are so quiet and efficient. An FV-20VQ2 fan installed in the kitchen ceiling six feet from a cooktop that uses an unvented hood is an excellent way to provide kitchen ventilation. The UL definition for kitchen ventilation is to avoid the area near a cooktop described by a 45 degree line up and out from the cooktop. If the fan or grille is within that area, the fan must be rated for rangehood use and grease and use a metal grille and must use all metal ducting. If it is outside that area, it does not have to have that rating and can use nonmetal ducts. The Panasonic fans are an excellent choice for this application. An approach that works well in large kitchens is to use a ducted range hood or downdraft exhaust for the range itself and a Panasonic kitchen ventilation fan to exhaust the general odors and moisture in the greater kitchen area.

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The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI), a trade association representing the manufacturers of 95% of the residential fans in North America, recommends that a bathroom exhaust fan be selected that is capable of providing eight air changes per hour (ACH). Most building codes only require a minimum airflow of 50 cfm from a bathroom, with a capacity of providing five ACH. HVI also recommends that the kitchen ventilation fan (not the rangehood) be sized to provide 15 ACH and in other rooms be sized to provide six ACH. Panasonic feels that the designer should use the more optimal ventilation rates recommended by HVI. The following tables reflect the HVI sizing guidelines and assume metal duct and a reasonable roof jack or weather cap. If flexible or semi-rigid duct is used, add ten feet of duct run for your fan selection calculation to allow for the higher static pressure created.

Assumes eight foot ceilings.
Duct diameter is four inch for 05/07/08/11VQ fans, six inch for 20/35VQ fans.
If flexible or semi-rigid duct is used, add ten feet of duct run.

Assumes eight foot ceilings.
Duct diameter is four inch for 05/07/08/11VQ fans, six inch for 20/35VQ fans.
If flexible or semi-rigid duct is used, add ten feet of duct run.

Table C: Kitchen fan sizing and selection (not rangehood flow) (to achieve 15 ACH)

Kitchen	Rigid metal duct length from fan to cap
Sq Ft	10 feet	20 feet	30 feet	40 feet
50	11VQ2	11VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2
60	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2
70	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2
80	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2
90	20VQ2	20VQ2	20VQ2	35VQ2
100	20VQ2	35VQ2	35VQ2	35VQ2
140	35VQ2	35VQ2	35VQ2	35VQ2
180	2-20VQ2	2-20VQ2	2-20VQ2	2-20VQ 2
240	20+35VQ2	20+35VQ2	2-35VQ2	2-35VQ 2
300	2-35VQ2	2-35VQ2	2-35VQ2	2-35VQ2

Assumes eight foot ceilings.
Duct diameter is four inch for 11VQ fans, six inch for 20/35VQ fans.
If flexible or semi-rigid duct is used, add ten feet of duct run.

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Question 13: What is Static Pressure and how does it affect the type and size of duct I should use with my Panasonic fan?

• Virtually all fans lose flow as the static pressure increases. Static pressure is a measure of the resistance to flow that the fan "sees" as it attempts to push air out through a duct. Static pressure is measured in inches of water column or water gauge. It is expressed as 0.1" w.g. or 0.25" w.g. to show that the resistance is equal to a column of water one-tenth or one-quarter of an inch tall. Doesn't sound like much. does it? Most bath fans operate at between 0.1" and 0.25" w.g. Sometimes small ducting or tight roof caps can increase this static pressure to 0.5" or 0.7" w.g. and you get virtually no flow. Your furnace has to overcome a static pressure of 0.3" or 0.4" w.g. to push the heated air out into your bedroom. Almost all bath fans are rated at 0.1" w.g. by the Home Ventilating Institute. HVI publishes a directory of certified products, including the Panasonic fans. Call HVI in Chicago at 1-847-394-0150 to request a copy.
  
  
• The ability of a fan to overcome static pressure is shown in the fan curve for a particular fan. In the example below, note how the airflow drops off as the static pressure increases.

• The selection of the ducting for a particular installation can drastically affect the performance of a fan. That is why Tables A, B, and C under Question 12 that show what fan to use for what size room often require a larger fan for longer duct runs. As the duct gets longer, the static pressure increases and the flow decreases. This limits the size of room that a particular fan can reasonably ventilate.
  
  
• In general, smooth metal duct is the best choice for moving air. Some local jurisdictions require it for all ducting. It has the lowest pressure drop for any given length. Semi-rigid metal duct is next, followed by flexible metal and flexible plastic, such as insulated flexible duct. Do not use plastic dryer connection ducting -- it will not hold up. We generally recommend that you insulate the duct whenever it is in the attic or basement in climates where the night-time temperature may drop down to the dew point, typically around 50 . This will minimize condensation in the duct that can drip back into the room or harbor mold or mildew. Properly installed insulated flex duct works fairly well if the duct runs are not too long. An alternative when smooth metal duct is used is to use insulated flex duct as the insulation by removing the inner liner and pulling it over the metal duct. The installer can wrap the duct with fiberglass insulation, but the labor makes this as costly as using flex duct.
  
  
• Avoid using three inch duct. This creates very high static pressure, reduces airflow dramatically, and over the long term, reduces motor life in the fan. These fans are designed to use four inch ducts for the smaller fans and six inch duct for the larger fans. One strategy to overcome static pressure is to up-size the duct run one size. Even though the duct connection on the rough-in adapter is four inch for the smaller fans, moving up to a five inch duct will cut the static pressure almost in half, increasing flow. A five inch duct, especially a flexible one, will fit right on the adapter on the smaller fans. The five inch duct is especially important for the 11VQ2 fan, as it is highly susceptible to static pressure problems when 110 cfm is pushed through a four inch duct. Using a five inch duct with the 11VQ2 fan will increase its flow from 90 cfm to 114 cfm for 20 feet of smooth duct. This reduction in the static pressure also affects the noise level in the room, as the fans sound quieter when the static pressure is reduced. The same idea applies to the 35VQ2 fan. It is trying to move 340 cfm through a six inch duct. This creates a lot of static pressure and reduces the flow. Increasing the duct to seven inches increases the flow with 20 feet of smooth metal duct from 318 cfm to 340 cfm. Increasing to eight inches brings it up to 350 cfm.
  
  
• The same idea of upsizing the duct applies to the use of flexible duct material. If you use flex duct, either upsize the fan or upsize the duct. Wall caps and roof jacks are generally available in four, six, seven, and eight inch sizes. Avoid using "mushroom roof vents" that are designed for passive attic ventilation. They have a high static pressure drop, as the air has to turn 180 down toward the roofing and then 90 out to the side -- often adding more static pressure than the ducts and virtually stopping the airflow. Pick wall caps and roof jacks that have a large area for the air to go through and that only require the air to turn about 90 . Pick a cap with a collar so that the duct can be hard-connected to the cap. This will ensure that the stale air and moisture is expelled outside of the building and not in the attic where the moisture can condense and cause mold and mildew.
  
  
• If you are remodeling a house with existing three inch duct runs, one trick is to use the three inch as a guide for the four inch replacement duct. Simply slip the new four inch duct over the three inch and push it to the fan or to the wall to avoid having to expose all the duct. Once the new duct is in the right place, pull out the three inch and dispose of it.

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The allowable duct length is calculated by the Equivalent Duct Length method. This means that you measure the distance the duct needs to run and then count the number of elbows. Take the measured length of the run and add seven feet for each four inch elbow or ten feet for each six inch elbow. Add ten feet if you are using flexible duct rather than smooth metal duct. We have already included the pressure drop of a common roof jack or wall cap, but poor caps such as mushroom vents may add as much as 60 feet of equivalent length. Add these lengths together to give the equivalent length of duct. Use it in Tables A, B, or C in Question 12 above.

For example, if you have ten feet of duct run with four inch ducts and one 90 elbow, you add seven feet to the ten foot duct run and use the 20 feet column above.

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Tables A, B, and C are based on eight foot ceilings. You can calculate the volume of the space (length x width x average ceiling height) and compare it to the volume of the listed room sizes to see which fan you should use. A simple rule of thumb is to just upsize the fan one model for a 10-14 foot ceiling and go up to sizes for higher ceilings.

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Question 16: What does indoor air quality mean and why do I care?

• Our houses are full of materials that give off gases and particulates that can be harmful to humans over time. Look under your kitchen sink or in the basement near the furnace. Do you have any old paint or solvents or cleaners? Do you have a wood stove or fireplace? How about a gas range? Is there particleboard in your furniture or cabinets? Do you have carpets? All of these are sources of pollutants that we need to minimize. Ventilation is one approach to improving the "indoor air quality" (IAQ) of our homes and other buildings by removing these pollutants and introducing outdoor air. Panasonic fans are often used as "whole house IAQ" fans to ventilate for long periods to take out stale air and pull in outdoor air.
  
  
• Outdoor air is introduced through unintentional openings and through planned fresh air inlets. Older houses tended to be leaky and did not need intentional openings. However, they cost a lot to heat or cool because of all the leaks. As we have made houses tighter, both by design and by the use of large sheet materials like gypsum board and plywood, we need to plan the openings so they work without a large energy penalty. Panasonic fans that are installed as whole house IAQ fans operate for eight hours or more a day to ensure an adequate amount of fresh air is brought into the home. (Note: do not confuse these fans with whole house cooling fans that are 3-5,000 cfm ceiling fans designed to cool houses at night in hot climates). Intentional methods of bringing in fresh outdoor air include vented windows, wall inlets, and connections to the furnace return air plenum. This is sometimes called "makeup air".

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Question 17: I have heard of water dripping from the grille or mirrors not clearing quick enough. Is the fan not operating correctly?

• Water dripping from the grille is either a faulty roof jack that allows wind-driven rain to come into the duct or condensation from the warm, humid air in the house striking the cold duct surface. Condensation is a problem that generally happens when uninsulated metal duct is located in a cold attic. As we said in Question 13, this will vary with the local dew point, but will generally not be a problem where the duct never gets below about 50 . If you get condensation dripping from the grille, it probably means that the metal rough-in adapter on the fan or the duct in the attic or even the roof jack is getting so cold that the warm air rising up the duct from the house is condensing and running back down the duct.
• How can you solve this problem? Two things help. First, operate the fan for longer periods to carry out more of the moisture so the air is not so humid after the fan stops running. The moisture will generally not form while the fan is running unless it is very cold or has a very long duct run in a cold attic. Second, insulate the duct so there is less likelihood of the moisture condensing out. Use insulated flexible duct that is installed properly or pull insulation over the outside of metal duct. In cold climates, it is common to bury the duct under the attic insulation for most of the run across an attic.
• If you find that there is a problem of not clearing the moisture from the room, look at the ducting and at the run time of the fan. If the fan cannot overcome the static pressure of the duct due to poor duct design or installation (or damage), you cannot get the air out and so cannot get the moisture out. The issue is often that the fan is capable of moving the required amount of air, but it is just not being run long enough. The fan in a bathroom should be operated for 20-30 minutes after a shower is finished, not just shut off as the occupant walks out the door. Better yet is operation with a time-of-day timer to provide long blocks of ventilation during planned times -- say two hours in the morning and two hours in the evening. This ensures that the fan has enough time to remove the moisture from the room after a bath or shower. The same thing applies to kitchen ventilation. You can use a 1,000 cfm fan for one minute or a 100 cfm fan for 10 minutes or a 50 cfm fan for 20 minutes to move the same amount of air. Which one would you like to live with?

Panasonic now introduces the "WhisperLite" series as an addition to our ventilating line. The key features of WhisperLite includes:

1. Super Quiet
2. Low input Wattage
3. Long Life & Continuous Operation
4. Energy Efficient, Color Corrected Fluorescent Lamps

Comparison data of energy consumption with conventional light combo fan.

Case 1: Residential house 3 fans for 3 bathrooms
Panasonic (8 Hours/day x 365 days x 44 watt x 10cent/K.watt x 3 sets)/1000= $38.54
Brand A (8 hours/day x 365days x 160 watt x 10cet/K.watt x 3 sets)/1000= $140.16

Annual saving $101.62 

Case 2: Hotel bath room capacity 100 guest rooms
Panasonic
(8 hours/day x 365 days x 44 watt x 10 cent/K.watt x 100 rooms)/1000= $1,284.80
Brand A
(8 hours/dayx365days x 160 watt x 10 cent/K.watt x 100 rooms)/1000= $4,672.00

Annual saving $3,387.20

2. Long life:

Like Panasonic's Super-Quiet series, the WhisperLite series fan has been factory tested at more than 30,000 hours of continuos operation. And Panasonic's fluorescent lamp (included with WhisperLite) is rated at 10,000 hours.

Life of motor & lamps

Replacement period

Panasonic uses long life color coated steel for body construction to prevent rust.

3. Quiet operation:
Panasonic WhisperLite have taken several measures to reduce the noise level such as a totally enclosed condenser motor, large size fan casing with low RPM, and totally sealed body casing. These measures help to eliminate noise.

4. Why we include two Panasonic fluorescent lamps:
Panasonic provides added convenience and comfort for contractors and end users. While competitor models do not include lamps, Panasonic's WhisperLite includes two Panasonic color corrected fluorescent lamps (model # FDS13E27.U/2). These lamps put out over 1700 lumens (equivalent to two 60-watt incandescent bulbs) and have a rated life of 10,000 hours.

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